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Universal Genève Polerouter Date Ref. 204503/3

Regular price $2,950.00
Unit price


Gerald Genta is arguably one of the most iconic watch designers of all-time - his body of work includes Patek Phillippe's Nautilus, Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak and Universal Genéve's Polerouter, the first watch he ever designed at age 23. The design from 1954 was to honour the newly opened "polar route" operated by Scandinavian Airlines Systems. The route opened up a quicker way between Los Angeles and Copenhagen, flying over the magnetic North Pole. The watch Genta designed was issued to the pilots and crew of these flights, and it went on to serve as the foundation for an entire line of watches under the Polerouter designation. 

This particular reference 204503/3 features a silver dial with surrounding rehaut, giving the watch a depth unlike any other. Additionally, the dial on this particular example has developed a warm, almost cream-like, even patina with some spotting. This reference also features the iconic trapezoidal date window with original date wheel. The hands are original dauphine hands and have developed a matching patina.

Personal Comments: 
If you are looking for a Polerouter with patina, this is an excellent, all-original example. The case remains incredibly sharp, likely unpolished, with all bevels and angles remaining on the twisted lugs. The crystal is original and signed. This particular reference featured a circular loupe over the trapezoidal date window, and these crystals are much less common. Recently serviced and ready to wear, don't miss out on a true icon.

Details Of This Watch

Maker: Universal Genève
Model: Polerouter Date
Reference: 204503/3 
Year: Approx. 1959-1960
Dimensions: 35mm diameter; 9mm thickness 
Lug Width: 19mm
Box/Papers: No
 Cal. 215-1 w/ date
Dial: Original Universal Genève dial
Hands: Original Universal Genève hour marks and hands
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Original Universal Genève plexiglass; signed with circular loupe over date window
Bracelet/Strap: Aftermarket leather strap
Performance: Watch is fully functioning, winds smooth

What We Enjoy

- Universal Genéve original parts
- In amazing vintage condition with an unpolished case
- It's a true icon designed by Gerald Genta

Things To Note

- Case reference and serial numbers have partially faded away
- Minor scratches from wear