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Good Tailoring, Good Watches

My wife and I on our wedding day! Photo by Rachel Soh

Good tailoring is exactly how a watch should make you feel, as if it was made for you. Not just in terms of case size, dimensions, or weight, but in the sense that it feels just right. Maybe it is sentimental, maybe it marks an achievement, or maybe it is a design that resonates with you. Whatever the reason, always search for that feeling. Tailoring and watches have gone hand in hand for decades both are about care, expression, and understanding what works for you. We could draw a parallel that independent watchmakers are much like bespoke tailors and it is the craft that takes something from being average to great.

Over the years, I have built a small but considered wardrobe of suits and sportcoats — a mix of off-the-rack, made-to-measure commissions, and second-hand finds. Since my profession rarely calls for a full suit on a daily basis, I usually opt for separates: a tailored trouser or a pair of jeans, paired with a jacket which, by today’s standards, comfortably passes for smart casual. Full suits are typically reserved for weddings or the occasional formal event.

Clients who visit the showroom or meet me in person ask where I buy my tailoring, or how the process of commissioning a suit actually works. I previously worked in the industry and still keep up to date on brands and offerings so I thought I would shed some light on the subject.

Through trying many options over the years, the biggest realisation has been that I am not an easy body to fit. My shoulders are exceptionally broad and square. Because of that, I tend to favour tailors whose house style leans into Italian construction — softer and more relaxed in feel. It suits my shape, and also gives the overall look a more casual, wearable sensibility. Trousers have been another long-standing challenge. No matter the cut or waistband type they always seem to slide down. The issue, I have come to learn, is that I need trousers to properly hug the seat and upper waist.

For anyone looking to commission something or even buy something off the rack I urge you to try it on before you buy. Much like watches there is a difference between seeing something online or on social media versus it actually being on you. Clearly, with tailoring there are adjustments that can be made to make a garment fit you better but I always recommend someone to go custom as you have more control over what you want.

For anyone looking to commission something or even buy off the rack I urge you to try it on before you buy. Much like watches there is a difference between seeing something online or on social media versus it actually being on you. With my clients I encourage everyone to put it on the wrist before committing as that is the best indicator if something works for you. Clearly, with tailoring there are adjustments that can be made to fit you better but I always recommend someone to go custom as you have more control over what you want.

Here are a list of tailors I can recommend:

  • Crane Brothers
  • Anglo-Italian
  • Drake's
  • Ring Jacket
  • The Revere
  • Spier & Mackay
  • Suitsupply

The most recent suit I had made was for my wedding — a navy, double-breasted suit in a high-twist wool. I commissioned it with Mawson Óssa, a Sydney-based atelier offering made-to-measure, semi-bespoke, and bespoke services. My good friend Dan Pantoja, who is deeply into tailoring himself, sent me their Instagram and mentioned they would be in Auckland for a short trunk show. I had not really shopped around for my wedding suit and had been considering commissioning something bespoke on a work trip to Tokyo or Hong Kong but after just one consultation with Grant, the founder, and Nate, I was convinced. Based on what I wanted, my body, and my concerns in regards to fit, they recommended their semi-bespoke service. Essentially it’s a blend between made-to-measure and bespoke where the garment is still made on a block but they have a lot more freedom with shaping and customisation.

My double breasted navy suit by Mawson Óssa. Photos by Rachel Soh

They gave me confidence that I was in good hands not just because they listened, but because they clearly explained how they would achieve what I was after. That first meeting ran for over an hour and quickly moved beyond tailoring. We spoke about our respective businesses, travel and food. A few months later, I had my first fitting with Nate when he returned to Auckland to deliver garments to clients. Then, I flew to Sydney for the first try-on. Only a few small tweaks were needed — and the trousers? By far the best fitting pair I have ever owned. The shaping and curve around the seat was immaculate, exactly what Nate had mapped out during our initial fitting.

On the day, I received more compliments on the suit than I could count. I now wear the jacket and trousers separately as well, and people continuously ask where it is from. It is a testament to what good tailoring can do when it is done right — not just in how it fits, but in how it makes you feel, and you can achieve that same feeling in a watch.

And that is exactly how a watch should make you feel too — like it was made for you. Not just in terms of case size or weight, but in the sense that it carries meaning. Maybe it is sentimental, maybe it marks an achievement, or maybe it is simply a design that resonates with you. Whatever the reason, the feeling matters. Tailoring and watches have gone hand in hand for decades — both are about care, expression, and understanding yourself.

From the 22nd to 24th of August, Grant and Nate will be back in Auckland for a trunk show. We will also be co-hosting an event on Thursday 21st August, the evening will bring together a refined drinks list, a preview of Mawson Óssa’s latest offering and a few watches from our collection. We will also be having a short Q&A session where I will be speaking with Grant about the brand and my experience with them.

You can RSVP via clicking this link

If you would like to book a consultation or fitting with Mawson Ossa, you can do so below:
Book an appointment with Mawson Óssa

Written by Zayyar Win Thein