I have my first strictly black tie event coming up this June. One of my closest high school friends is getting married on the Gold Coast. As I started planning the look – and naturally, what watch I would wear – it had me down a rabbit hole thinking about which watches are most appropriate to wear with black tie?

I wrote an article a few years ago for Crane Brother’s Dispatch primarily about wedding watches, and what watch would be suitable if you were a groom or guest. It feels like the right time to revisit this topic and give it further depth — specifically for the black tie dress code.

Traditionally, black tie meant no watch at all. The notion was simple, if you are truly enjoying the occasion, there is no need to keep track of time. Time should feel suspended during a celebration and event. It is a romanticised idea, and one I respect, but in the modern day it is fairly acceptable to be wearing a timepiece for the dress code — but it needs to be the right timepiece.

If you are going to wear a watch, make sure it complements the outfit rather than distracting from it. Here are a few key points to follow:

• The most appropriate choice is a dress watch.
• Avoid sports models entirely – you have been warned. 
• Keep complications away, even the date window.
• Stick with a leather strap, ideally in black to match your shoes. 

My personal opinion and whilst not essential, opt for a clean, minimal dial with simple hour markers instead of any numerals as it feels more refined. If you are a guest, your outfit and watch should not be attracting attention away from the occasion or the host; that being said if you are the host then please, be as ostentatious as you wish.

I recommend anything from 32mm to 38mm in diameter, under 11mm thick; I find the sweet spot is around 6mm to 8mm to nicely slip under the cuff. Movement wise, you will likely be heading toward a manual wind which is perfectly acceptable. My recommendations are always going to be vintage or neo-vintage. I find modern catalogues too large in diameter and sometimes too expensive for what they are.

Here are some clear choices that are tried and true:

• Cartier – Tank Louis, Cintrée, or Normale. Always elegant.
• Jaeger-LeCoultre — Reverso or Ultra-Thin.
• Rolex — The Cellini line.
• Piaget — Plenty of options when going for vintage but the Protocole Ref. 9154 stands out.
• Patek Philippe — Calatrava Ref. 96, 3923, 3976 are great, there are endless examples to explore. Or search for an Ellipse, understated and under appreciated.
• Breguet — Look for a dial that has some detail or guilloche.
• Audemars Piguet — From the 1960s to 1980s there are some beautiful manual wind options, also fairly inexpensive compared to other counterparts.
• Blancpain — The Villeret family.
• Alternatively, you could opt for a pocket watch – something elegant that slips neatly into a jacket pocket.

If you are attending something a little more extravagant – say a New Years Eve party wearing a velvet dinner jacket – there is room for bolder choices. Perhaps an Emperador Ref. 9131 from Piaget, or a diamond-set Audemars Piguet Cobra Ref. 56525. When worn with confidence and that type of attire, those blinged out pieces can be very tasteful.

For something more unexpected, I would include the first Grand Seiko on the list – a beautiful expression of Japanese watchmaking that is still on my personal wishlist to acquire. It measures around 35mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick inclusive of its crystal. This watch is an excellent talking point and it is not your run of the mill option. Alternatively, Credor is another under the radar choice that offers excellent dress watches.

As for this occasion, I will be wearing my Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3923 executed in rose gold. It measures approximately 32mm in diameter with a shaped stepped case and it features small seconds at six o'clock. To me it is the definition of elegance and the Calatrava line perfectly embodies all of this. It was the watch I wore on my wedding day, and it was the first Swiss watch I purchased for myself after selling my collection to start Wynn and Thayne. I will be pairing it with a padded black leather strap from Artisan Straps, which gives the rose gold a slightly warmer, yellow tone against the stark black. Normally, it is on a beautiful taupe epsom strap that Jayson from Artisan made for me.

For my outfit I will be following the rules of black tie closely. As I am a traditionalist, it will be a black single-breasted peak lapel tuxedo. The trousers are plain hemmed with a satin stripe down the outside of the leg. A silk self-tie bow tie paired with a white stud front shirt and French cuffs. I am thinking about wearing patent leather shoes, otherwise I have a pair of black cordovan leather tassel loafers from Alden that should do the trick. I am still on the hunt for nice cufflinks, if you have any recommendations please let me know.

A good dress watch does not shout – it whispers, and it stays with you long after the night ends. That, to me, is the real beauty of watch collecting – it is as much about the memories as it is about mechanics. Black tie events are not the place for Submariners or Speedmasters. Leave those in the watch box, you can wear them any other day of the week.

If you are considering a dress watch for your collection drop us a line to start the conversation. We are always looking to stock more dress watches but they often tend to sell fairly quickly before we can get them online!

Written by Zayyar Win Thein